General Terms

Here are some words you might hear to describe suits when you are shopping:

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BESPOKE‍

An article of clothing made entirely from scratch without the use of any pre-existing patterns.

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MADE-TO-MEASURE

An article of clothing that follows a pattern or structure, but has been created in accordance with the precise measurements of the customer.

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READY TO WEAR

‍“Off-the-rack,” regular or seasonal stock in store, ready to take home. This can be altered to fit the customer.

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THREAD COUNT‍

The number of threads in one square inch of fabric. The higher the count, the softer the material, but also less durable.

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TWO-PIECE-SUIT

‍A suit that includes only a jacket and pants.
These can be worn for most occasions.

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THREE-PIECE-SUIT

‍A suit that includes a jacket, vest, and pants.
These are typically worn for more formal occasions.

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TUXEDO‍

A formal suit that may be two or three pieces. These are worn on formal occasions.

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SUIT ANATOMY

There are many parts to a suit, each with a variety of styles to choose from. The following list will help you determine what to purchase for different occasions.

Jacket

This is typically the most scrutinized part of a suit since it is usually the first piece to attract the eyes. Here are some styles you may come across:

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SUIT JACKET

‍This is always part of a full suit and tends to be more structured than a blazer or sport coat.

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SPORT COAT

‍This is less formal than a blazer or a suit jacket. It is not appropriate for formal events but works well for many other occasions. They come in a variety of fabrics, patterns, and colors and can even be worn with jeans.

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BLAZER

‍This is the middle ground between a suit jacket and a sport coat, but a blazer and a sports jacket can be used interchangeably in most situations. They can come in many colors and typically have metal buttons.

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DINNER JACKET

‍This is a formal version of the jacket, usually in cream colored wool, and is worn with black tuxedo trousers. It can also come in a variety of fabrics, including silk or velvet, and patterns, such as festive plaids or prints.

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SINGLE-BREASTED

‍A jacket with a single column of buttons.

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DOUBLE-BREASTED

‍This is a jacket with two columns of buttons.

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It is very important that whichever style you choose, should be tailored to fit and flatter your frame. Now that you are familiar with jacket styles, let’s dive into the parts of a jacket:

Lapel

This is the folded fabric on the front of a jacket attached to the collar. There are three types: notch, peak, and shawl. Jackets with notch lapels can be worn for any occasion, but peak and shawl are usually reserved for formal suits and tuxedos.

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CANVAS

The layer of fabric in between the outer fabric and the lining of a jacket’s front panels. This helps provide structure to the jacket.

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FLAP POCKET

Pockets built into the jacket with a flap closure over the opening.

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WELT POCKET

‍Pockets built into the jacket without a flap closure over the opening.

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VENTS

‍Vertical slits on the back of a jacket that help the fit to be more natural and comfortable. Jackets will usually have either single or double vents. A single vent is seen as more modern and is common in sport coats and blazers. Double vents are seen as more traditional and sophisticated and are often seen on more formal jackets or tuxedos.

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WORKING CUFFS

‍A sleeve cuff with working buttons that allow jacket sleeves to be opened and rolled up.

Trousers

The second suit piece we will focus on is trousers. Often, men will purchase unflattering pants because all they look for is waist size. There are many factors that go into sizing and styling for suit pants:

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FULL BREAK

A traditional trouser length where the fabric covers about half of the back of the shoe.

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HALF BREAK

‍A more modern trouser length where the bottom of the pant leg covers only the top quarter of the back of the shoe.

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PLEAT

‍Folded fabric on the front of the trousers. Pants can be single or double-pleated.

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FLAT-FRONT

‍Trousers with no pleats.

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INSEAM

The length of the inner leg from the groin to the bottom of the leg.

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OUTSEAM

‍The measurement from the waistband on the outside edge of the pants to the bottom of the pant leg.

Vests

The last suit piece we will explore is the vest. It is not a requirement to always pair a vest with your suit, but for formal occasions, a vest elevates and completes your look. Some suits come with a matching vest when you purchase it. This is a three-piece suit (defined in the first section). There are two types of vests:

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SINGLE-BREASTED

Characterized by a single row of 4-6 buttons down the front, this is the most common vest style. They come in a wide variety of fabric options, allowing for creativity when paired with a suit. They are ideal for semi-formal situations but can be dressed up for formal occasions.

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DOUBLE-BREASTED

‍Characterized by two parallel rows of buttons, this style is inherently more formal and traditional. Double-breasted vests will complement their matching suit jacket beautifully, but can also be worn independently for a striking fashion statement.

Options and Accessories

Beyond your two or three-piece suit, there are other wardrobe choices to consider. You can use some garments like shirts and shoes to express your personal style. There are many colors, patterns, and textures that you can experiment with to create a variety of suit combinations.

Pocket squares offer additional creative moments for your suit. If you are attending a fancy social event with your partner, use a pocket square to match the color of her dress. Choosing the right neckwear can change the look altogether. Bowties are classic and elegant, ideal for formal occasions. Neckties are smart and modern, perfect for semi-formal and professional settings. Ultimately, assembling your new suit will involve attention to detail and a balance of classic and trendy to express your individuality.

Men’s Suit Store in Dallas, Texas

Here at Culwell and Son, we understand that a suit, and all its parts, can be a complex addition to a gentleman’s wardrobe. We offer an extensive collection of suits in many styles and formalities, and our expert team can help you find the right ensemble for any event. Whether you need a new suit from the ground up or would like advice on sprucing up your formal wear, stop by Culwell and Son in Highland Park, Texas for curated recommendations and exceptional service.

Click the button below to learn more about our suit collection and how we can help you discover your signature style.

6319 HILLCREST AVE., DALLAS, TX 75205

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Suit Terminology